The northern part of Lake Garda, about fifteen kilometers north of Brenzone sul Garda, is recognized at European level as a paradise for sport climbers. This fame is certainly due to the hundreds of routes of all levels of difficulty; From beginners to advanced, everyone will find the wall that best suits their characteristics.
Summer is undoubtedly the favorite season for climbers, but Lake Garda allows climbing all year round thanks to its mild climate. The walls are perfectly equipped and allow safe climbing.
Another peculiarity of these routes is their proximity to the lake and the breathtaking panorama they offer during the climb.
The cliffs, via ferrata and equipped paths:
Marciaga rock face:
Marciaga is only 20 km south of Brenzone sul Garda and 7 km from the A22 exit "Affi - Lago di Garda Sud". Once in Marciaga, go to the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Soccorso, near which you will park. From here you climb the cliff that you can see to the northwest behind the golf course.
The rock routes can be reached in less than 10 minutes.
This Marciaga gym can be visited all year round: its south orientation makes it possible to climb even in the middle hours of winter days and can guarantee a breathtaking view of Lake Garda.
The routes that you can try in Marciaga are mainly monotype, which can be done with a 60m rope and 8-10 quickdraws.
Baone
• Location: Arco
• Orientation: South
• Number of itineraries: 13
• Difficulty: 4b/6a
• Length: from 25 to 100 m
• Type: Inclined Compact Laminate
• Notes: Flat floor area furnished with tables/benches and toilets
Lizard Beach
• Location: Torbole/Tempesta
• Orientation: South
• Number of itineraries: 20
• Difficulty: 6a/7c 7a/b
• Length: from 15 to 60 m, on average 30 m
• Type: Vertical wall with small handles carved into the water
• Notes: Cliff overlooking lake, well spaced sheltered anchorages
Horn of Bo
• Location: Torbole/Tempesta
• Orientation: West
• Number of itineraries: 4
• Difficulty: 4b/5a
• Length: 50/60 m
• Type: Inclined compact with beach views
• Note: -
San Martino Policromuro
• Location: Arco
• Orientation: East
• Number of itineraries: 130
• Difficulty: 5a/9a
• Length: 15/40 m, average 20/25 m
• Type: mainly overhangs, some slabs and vertical walls in the first sector on the left
• Notes: long rocky bar in the middle of the olive groves, base equipped with tables/benches - WC, difficult parking.
Nago
• Location: Nago
• Orientation: South
• Number of itineraries: 120
• Difficulty: 5a/8a
• Length: 15/40 m, average 25/30 m
• Type: Slightly overhanging vertical jump walls, various styles
• Notes: large cliff top, easily accessible and well equipped, excellent for groups and families - parking along Monte Baldo road
San Giovanni Pass
• Location: Nago/Mori
• Orientation: South
• Number of itineraries: 40
• Difficulty: 5a/8a
• Length: 10/25 m
• Type: sub-vertical wall with small handles on the wall overhanging the main block
• Notes: The surrounding area offers the opportunity for bouldering on the boulders scattered in the forest, an ideal area for families
Wall of the Donkey, M. Colodri West Wall
• Location: Arco
• Orientation: West
• Number of itineraries: 35
• Difficulty: 4a/6b
• Length: 10/25 m
• Type: sub-vertically inclined slabs, simple wall specially equipped for children, area at the bottom equipped with tables/benches and toilets
• Warnings: Difficult parking - it is advisable to walk up from Arco.
Via ferrata "Via dell'Amicizia" at Cima S.A.T.
• Location: Riva del Garda
• Path: no. 404/bis
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude gain: 650 m
• Duration: h. 2.40
• Notes: itinerary mainly on stairs overlooking the lake, wonderful panorama over the whole area.
"Fausto Susatti" via ferrata on Cima Capi
• Location: Riva del Garda
• Path: no. 405
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude difference: m. 757
• Duration: h. 5.40
• Notes: mountaineering and panoramic route, suitable for hikers who want to start with via ferrata.
Via ferrata "Rino Pisetta" Little Dain
• Location: Sarche
• Away: -
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude difference: m. 721
• Duration: h. 4.00
• Notes: via ferrata for experts, the first 60 meters and the last slab are very difficult, unique panorama over the Valle dei Laghi.
Montalbano via ferrata
• Location: Mori
• Away: -
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude difference: 300 m
• Duration: h. 2.30
• Notes: A stone's throw from the town of Mori, this is one of the most difficult via ferratas.
*EHE = experienced hiker with equipment (cord, helmet, carabiner and harness)
Mario Foletti path
• Location: Riva del Garda
• Path: no. 460
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude gain: 205 m
• Duration: h. 1.20
• Notes: Val Vasòtina/Loc Le Frate (access from Biacesa, Val di Ledro, along 417) b. 417q. 617 - b. 460/ q. 840 - Church of San Giovanni q. 860 - S/SE coat of arms of Cima Rocca b. 405 / q. 880
Colodri Trail
• Location: Arco
• Path: no. 431/bis
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude difference: 270 m
• Duration: h. 1.50
• Notes: route within walking distance of Arco, suitable for beginners in mountaineering.
"Path of the 92nd Congress" Arco - Cima Baone *
• Location: Arco
• Away: -
• Difficulty: EH*
• Altitude difference: m. 389
• Duration: h. 3.00
• Notes: Tremoz site, Arco (accessible from Via Lomego) – Cima Baone q. 480 - Padaro base 353 - Capitello S. Rocco - Crossroads Baone - Arco olive grove.
Rampin Trail
• Location: Dro
• Path: 426
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude gain: 1102 m
• Duration: h. 4.50
• Notes: Pietramurata - Coste di Massampiano q. 850 - Duson/b. 408) f. 1350 - On the crucifix q. 1215 - Malga Poia (Naon) h. 986 - Church of the Holy Cross q. 757 - Godenzo q. 558
"Sentiero degli Scaloni" Ceniga - San Antonio
• Location: Ceniga (Dro)
• Path: 428
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude gain: 408 m
• Duration: h. 2.10
• Notes: Ceniga/Ponte Romano (b. 431) - Maso Lizzone - end of the stairs q. 325 - Dos Tondo (b. 428 bis) q. 507 - San Antonio/Provincial Road (b. 408) q. 766
Equipped path Rio Sallagoni
• Location: Drena
• Away: -
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Altitude difference: 130 m
• Duration: h. 1.30
• Notes: Characteristic path in the gorge, once used as a secret escape route from the castle above.
Somator trace
• Location: Val di Gresta
• Distance: 673
• Difficulty: EHE*
• Height difference: m. 308
• Duration: h. 2.00
• Notes: Malga Somator (b. 642) q. 1310 (located on the NE/E side of Monte Biaena, between Mori and Val di Gresta) - Monte Biaena (b. 671) q. 1618 - Grigolli house q. 1318
EH* = experienced hiker
EHE* = experienced hiker with equipment (cord, helmet, carabiner and harness)
q. = Height / b. = crossing
